Prague's markets split into two families. The big pair on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square run for six weeks with stages and giant trees, and they draw most visitors. The neighborhood markets open earlier and close by Christmas Eve, and they feel like a weeknight out for the people who live around each square. A good trip mixes both.
01The Christmas market on Old Town Square
- Outdoors
- Metro Staroměstská or Můstek
- Tree light shows
- Open to 6 Jan
The main market fills Staroměstské náměstí between the twin towers of the Týn Church and the Old Town Hall, where the apostles of the Astronomical Clock, built in 1410, appear on the hour. The tree in the middle stands about 26 m (85 ft) tall with some 95,000 LEDs. It is switched on in the late afternoon of opening day, and from then on it plays a short light show every evening on the half hour, from 4:30 to 9:30 pm.
A stage hosts choirs and folk bands from about 4 to 7 pm, with plenty of carols. There is a nativity scene, and a raised platform lets you look down over the roofs of the huts. On weekends children get craft workshops from 11 am to 3 pm. On 24 December the square holds an open-air Mass at 9 pm.
Watch the clock, then the treeArrive a few minutes before the hour for the apostles, then stay for the light show at half past. Weekday afternoons, right after the lights come on, are the calmest time to walk the lanes.
28 November to 6 January, daily 10 am to 10 pm; 24 December 10 am to 2 pm; 25 and 26 December noon to 10 pm
02Wenceslas Square and its ice rink
- Outdoors
- Metro Můstek or Muzeum
- Ice rink
- Open to 6 Jan
Václavské náměstí is less a square than a long, sloping boulevard, with the statue of St. Wenceslas on horseback in front of the National Museum at the top. The market gathers at the lower end, by Můstek, about seven minutes on foot from Old Town Square through Melantrichova or Na Můstku. Its tree is smaller, about 15 m (50 ft), and a stage runs from 4 to 6 pm Thursday to Sunday. Blacksmiths give demonstrations between the stalls, and there is a nativity of its own.
Bring the skates moodThe open-air rink on the square runs from 28 November into mid-February, 9 am to 9 pm, with skate hire on site and no booking. Skate first, then warm up at the stalls.
Same dates and hours as Old Town Square, including the shorter Christmas days; ice rink 9 am to 9 pm
03Peace Square, the locals' favorite
- Outdoors
- Metro A Náměstí Míru
- Crafts
- Opens first
In Vinohrady, in front of the Church of St. Ludmila, Náměstí Míru holds the market that many residents count as their favorite. It leans toward crafts and organic food rather than souvenirs, and it is the first in the city to open, on 20 November. The metro station right under the square is not step-free, which matters with a stroller.
Go for the craftsThis is the place to buy a present made in the Czech Republic and to drink your svařák beside people on their way home from work. Come in the early evening on a weekday.
20 November to 24 December, daily 10 am to 8 pm
Walk the big squares once for the tree and the clock. Then spend your second evening where the people of Prague buy their svařák.
04Republic Square, by the Municipal House
- Outdoors
- Metro B Náměstí Republiky
- Handmade goods
- Palladium part to 6 Jan
Náměstí Republiky sits beside the Municipal House, the Art Nouveau concert hall and café opened in 1912. The stalls here sell mostly handmade goods. A second section in front of the Palladium shopping center keeps trading after Christmas, until 6 January, which makes it one of the few places away from the big two with stalls in the week after the holidays.
Start the walk hereLook up at the Municipal House facade as its lights come on, then buy a first cup and head toward the Old Town. The shopping street Na Příkopě leads the other way, down to Wenceslas Square.
Daily 10 am to 8 pm, 25 November to 24 December; the Palladium section until 6 January
05Kampa, below Charles Bridge
- Outdoors
- Lesser Town, left bank
- River views
- Into early January
Kampa is the island on the Lesser Town side of the river, just below Charles Bridge. Its market, Na Kampě, is mostly about food and drink, with the Vltava and the bridge lit beside you. It opens later than the rest, in early December, and carries on into early January.
End the evening hereCross Charles Bridge, begun in 1357 and lined with baroque statues, and take the steps down to the island. A hot drink by the river after the crowds of the Old Town is the right way to close a market night.
Early December to early January, daily 10 am to 8 pm
06Jiřího z Poděbrad, known as Jiřák
- Outdoors
- Metro A Jiřího z Poděbrad
- Gifts
- Until 23 Dec
Further into Vinohrady, the square locals call Jiřák is built around the Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord. The square already hosts a weekly farmers' market, and the Christmas version keeps that feel, with more gifts than food and plenty of residents doing their shopping. It runs from 29 November and closes a day before most others, on 23 December.
Shop, then sit downBrowse the gift stalls in daylight, then warm up in one of the cafés and pubs around the square, where Vinohrady spends its evenings.
29 November to 23 December; daily hours vary, so check the organizer's page
07Tyl Square, the residents' corner
- Outdoors
- Metro C I. P. Pavlova
- Local prices
- Until 24 Dec
Tylovo náměstí sits where the New Town meets Vinohrady, a few steps from the I. P. Pavlova metro station, which is step-free. This is a small market for the neighborhood, where food and drink cost noticeably less than in the Old Town and most of the customers live within a few streets. It opens on 26 November and runs to Christmas Eve.
Eat like a residentPair it with Peace Square nearby for an evening of neighborhood markets with hardly a tour group in sight.
26 November to 24 December; daily hours vary, so check the organizer's page
20 NovFirst opening, Peace Square
26 mTree on Old Town Square
95,000LEDs on that tree
6 JanLast day on the big squares
These dates and hours follow the organizers' plans for the coming Advent. Organizers publish the final dates and hours shortly before each season, so check a market's own page before you travel. All dates and hours in one table.